Baruntse Expedition is one of the most adventurous and challenging expeditions in the Himalayas. Like Mt. Everest, Mt. Ama Dablam, and other high mountains, mountaineers are highly attracted towards expedition of Baruntse. During the climbing, you will get to see jaw-dropping views of snow-covered mountains. Situated at the lap of Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu, Mt. Baruntse was first summited by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow lead by Sir Edmund Hillary back in 1954.
Baruntse Expedition passes by the wilderness surroundings of the Hinku valley and the renowned Mera La of Makalu Barun Valley. The high success rate of scaling the summit made the Baruntse Expedition more promising for new climbers. You will get to see panoramic views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Cho Oyu, Mt. Makalu, and numerous other mountains.
Normal Route - Southeast Ridge of Baruntse Peak
Following the southeast ridge, you will ascend straight on a snowy path. At 7,000 meters, we will set up a fixed-line to reach the summit. The ridge position makes it prone to cornices. However, we will fix lines in places where we have to cross the camps. At 5,300 meters will be our base camp next to a gorgeous lake on the lateral moraine of the Hunku glacier near the base of the mountain.
Camp 1 (6,100m):
Camp 1 is situated on the west col of the edge of Upper Barun glacier. Crossing Hunku glacier, we will climb on the steep ravine. The 150m steep and 50 degree climb to the West Col from the glacier, we will fix ropes to provide a beeline to camp-1 for safe carrying of the loads required for the climb
Camp 2 (6,400m):
Located at the beginning of the southeast ridge of Upper Barun glacier, Camp 2 is at 6,400 meters. From Camp 1, we will ascend on a low angled glacial slope. On the way, we might fix ropes to cross crevasses.
Leaving behind Camp 2, we will ascend on a steep path of 75 degrees ice wall to a small Col at 6,500 meters. From here, you will gradually climb up to 6,700 meters. The trail from here will take you to the sharp summit ridge of Baruntse. Further, following the wide summit cone, you will reach the top of Baruntse.
Best Time to Summit Mt. Baruntse
Autumn (September to October) and Spring (April to May) is the best time for Mt. Baruntse summit. The environment you will be in during the Baruntse Expedition is harsh cold. The weather can not be predicted in the higher elevations. It can change anytime without any prior signs. Therefore, we have kept enough climbing days to summit Mt. Baruntse.
Baruntse Climbing Difficulty
No doubt, Baruntse Expedition is one of the strenuous journeys in the Everest region. From base camp to the western col with its enormous glacial plateau, everything will make your ascent challenging yet inspiring. Even though the altitude is less than many neighboring mountains, you will still climb in the high altitude with thin air and low oxygen level. This makes the ascent difficult.
Similarly, high altitude journeys also bring a chance of altitude sickness with itself. Therefore, make sure to acclimatize properly before moving to a higher elevation. Drink plenty of water and keep yourself hydrated. Avoid alcoholic drinks and inform your guide in case if you feel uncomfortable. To do Baruntse Expedition you have to be physically fit and in good health. Prior trekking experience is needed before the commencement of the journey. Also, do jogging and other exercise to increase your stamina and muscles power.